Cuttings:
start cruising! Reconnoiter your area to locate interesting crotons, especially
in old neighborhoods. Always get permission first. Bring cutters, paper
towels, aluminum foil, a large plastic bag, labels and water. Place a wet
paper towel around the cut stem, then seal with foil. Remove lower leaves
and flowers. Put cuttings and some water in the bag, shake and drain water
(or use a spray bottle). Seal and label bag until you get home. Place cuttings
in a container with water, in bright light but not full sun. Let soak 1-2
days. Strip the bark and green layer from the stem bottom for 2 inches,
so that you see only white on the stem. Mix peat moss and cypress mulch
in equal amounts, place it a pot, water, and drain well. Insert cuttings
into the potting mix, mist the leaves and seal in a large, clear bag (such
as the Hefty 39 gal. which can be found at Albertson’s). A long stake is
useful to keep the plant and bag upright. For several smaller cuttings,
lay the bag on its side. If the stems are too long for planting, they can
be cut and the pieces can be rooted (make sure they are upright, not upside
down). Don’t forget to label the cuttings. Place bags in bright light; avoid
full sun. In hot weather, cut several slits in the sides of the bags. Check
bags to make sure moisture is always present. In a few weeks, check the
cutting for root growth with a gentle tug. When rooted, open bags for several
weeks to harden plants. Air Layering: involves rooting a plant while still attached to the parent plant. June and July are the best months. You will need a sharp knife, sphagnum moss soaked overnight, heavy duty aluminum foil, twist ties and plastic wrap. Select a stem close to the head of the plant. Make a cut completely around the stem, and then a second cut 1 inch below the first. Make a vertical cut between the other two cuts, and remove all of the bark and green layer to expose the white portion. Do not leave any residue. Rooting hormone is not necessary. Make a ball of wet sphagnum moss, wrap it around the cut and seal with aluminum foil. Squeeze out excess water and seal top and bottom with twist ties. Keep inside moist. During dry weather, seal with plastic wrap to retain moisture. In 6-8 weeks, roots will form. Cut below root ball and pot in a good potting soil. Avoid full sun until plant is well established.
Seedlings: Crotons are genetically unstable therefore a seedling is rarely a carbon copy of the parent plant. In addition, it can take 5-6 years to find out what the plant is really going to look like when mature. Nevertheless, hybridization is both interesting and worthwhile. Croton flowers are small, usually white, and grow along a drooping stem. Later, seeds form in small round capsules. When you see capsules developing, cover the seed stem. This is necessary because when ripe, seed capsules explode and the seeds may be lost. Pantyhose or any similar material is o.k., as long as the seeds can breathe and the material does not retain moisture. Check frequently, and when the seeds explode, remove the seed portion and plant within 2-3 weeks. They must have warmth (75-80º) and bright light (not full sun) to germinate. Use a good potting soil and keep very moist. Transplant when true leaves develop or when plant is at least 20 inches high.